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2008 Log Book
November 23, 2008
Our fall in the Sea of Cortez has come to an end. We are at anchor in La Paz harbor, where we will hang out for the next month and a half while we make our final preparations to go to the South Pacific next spring. We will miss our family and friends in the states over the holidays, but will enjoy the camaraderie of cruisers on about a hundred other boats. The Thanksgiving potluck has to be limited to 250 people because that is how big the hall is that the local yacht club rents! Many are friends we have made over the last couple years, while there are a fair number of fresh boats that have just come down the coast.
We will be putting up the final Mexico page in a couple weeks. For now this log will go dormant until we are ready to move again, around January 15th.
November 18, 2008
After a morning hike at Isla San Francisco, we had a beautiful downwind sail southeast to Partida Cove. Paul has spent time at Islas Partida and Espiritu Santo near La Paz, but Erin hasn't, so it's time to even the score. We'll spend almost a week here hiking and putting the kayak to good use.
We'll also eat the rest of the Sierra tonight as sushi.
November 17, 2008
The Sea of Cortez is giving us a great farewell. We sailed the entire 7 miles we moved today, including while raising the anchor. That is a special treat we only do under perfect conditions. Immediately after leaving the anchorage we caught a Sierra Mackerel, which is one of the tastiest treats we get down here.
We are now anchored at Isla San Francisco where we have protection from the northerly winds and a flat calm anchorage. We also have a great shelling beach to walk on. It is going to be a fond memory when we move along into the South Pacific next spring.
November 16, 2008
We can see La Paz in the distance! We are going to continue to poke along for about another week getting there. Today was five hours of motoring with no fish, ending in a far from picture perfect anchorage. It will do for tonight, at least it isn't very rolly. Tomorrow morning we'll be moving on to one of the last pretty places we will see in the Sea of Cortez. It has been a wonderful two seasons, today we saw the last of the dramatic Grand Canyon like scenery. We probably won't be having any fresh fish for awhile either as the La Paz area is known to be pretty completely fished out.
November 14, 2008
Moving another 15 miles closer to La Paz, we are in Puerto El Gato. Rumor is there have been Puma sightings up the canyon. We had three good bights while fishing, the only one that got near the boat was a nice little Mahimahi. Unfortunately he wasn't hooked well and got away. That isn't so bad, pizza is on the menu tonight.
November 11, 2008
Made it into the Agua Verde anchorage last night for protection from forecast north winds that so far have not made an appearance. The water is not green, but the hillsides are--more so than normal. Paul worked on the topping lift and cleaned the hull. Our lives could not be more exciting...
November 9, 2008
We went into Loretto where we lugged 30 pounds of fresh fruits and veggies back to the boat. The best finds were asparagus, green beans and Romaine lettuce! The next two weeks on our slow boat to La Paz we will enjoy our fresh stuff. We got in and out early and are currently almost 20 miles south of Loretto in Bahia Mano de Dios, named for a hundred foot tall geological formation that looks like a large hand.
November 7, 2008
Today we managed to make it another 20 miles down the coast. We are closing in on Loretto where they have a great farmers market early Sunday morning. We are now about six miles away in the best northerly protection we can find, hoping the 30 knot winds die tonight as they are predicted. Tomorrow afternoon will be a run around town day, with internet access, and a chance for Erin to restock her chocolate horde.
November 6, 2008
We continue to take little steps on our way South. Today we made about a mile and a half! The wind shifted back to the North, so we had to move around the point to Bahia San Juanico. This is by far one of the most photographed bays in the Sea of Cortez. The geology is amazing. We are anchored between two small islands just off a beautiful beach. There are a half dozen other boats in here with us, all part of the southbound migration.
Erin went Kayaking and for a walk with a friend, while Paul spent an hour not catching any fish. That's the first time I got skunked in two months. That's OK there is still plenty of protien in the freezer.
November 3, 2008
We made a great big 6 mile jump to one of our favorite anchorages, Ramada Cove. The batteries were getting low, and the wind is coming out of the south, so Ramada is in the perfect spot.
We are now less than 150 miles from La Paz, where we will hang out for Christmas and get the final prep done for our move into the South Pacific. For now we are enjoying a warmer than expected fall season in the Sea of Cortez.
October 31, 2008
The Romany Star had a great Halloween sail! We ran downwind, wing on wing for most of our 40 mile trip at our maximum speed, 7 knots!
Just think, you can probably run faster than we go maxed out, and we will be doing an average of 5 knots when we cross the Pacific next spring. The passage from the Galapagos to the Gambier islands will be about the same as a fast jog from Washington DC to San Francisco.
October 30, 2008
We have moved out to Punta Santo Domingo, a short skip from Playa El Burro. We are here because the wind is supposed to come up from the north again tomorrow. We have a 40 mile sail downwind to our next protected anchorage. The two hours out to this point would add to tomorrow, and make a very long day.
October 28, 2008
We are continuing our migration to the South. Today we had no wind, so we motored the 25 miles to Play el Burro. Along the way a nice 10 pound Mahi Mahi decided to become catch of the week! Now the reefer is full of fresh filets. Paul will be helping out with a little work on the Sonrisa Net web page. This is a site maintained by a HAM radio operator that provides daily weather updates for cruisers here in Mexico.
October 26, 2008
We left Santa Rosalia this morning. We'll miss good friends we left in the marina and the abundant fresh produce and French bread from the local bakery. During the beautiful six-hour sail to Punta Chivato, a pelican took such a liking to us that he followed us for two hours, splashing down in the water to watch us go by, watching us from astern until we were almost out of sight, and then flying back to land in the water near us and repeat the entire maneuver. After doing this dozens of times, he got brave and landed on our solar panels to peck at out GPS receiver. Not being fond of pelican poop, we shooed him off.
October 19, 2008
We made it into Santa Rosalia early this morning. This is an old copper mining town that was set up by a French company. The bakery is the best in Baja, and the church was designed by Eifel, assembled in Europe for an exposition, then unbolted and shipped over here to be re-assembled, and is still standing. We will hang out here for a couple days, then move out to some of the anchorages in the area for some late season diving. I'll get the map updated in a day or two, I'm using real WIFI in an office, but the GPS position is down on the boat.
October 18, 2008
The wind that chased us yesterday all but died this morning. We have made about ten miles since sunrise. We are still en route to Santa Rosalia, but won't get in until tomorrow morning. We are practising getting along without using the motor as much since when we leave for the Galapagos and French Polynesia next spring we are going to have to be patient in these periods when the boat goes slow.
October 17, 2008
We chased through three anchorages today trying to find someplace we could park and not roll so badly we would fall down inside the boat. The wind has picked up again from the North, and we are to far South to make it back to Don Juan. Our only reasonable option is to ride with it. We will probably make it down to Santa Rosalia by tomorrow night.
October 16, 2008
We were able to Skype Erin's mom for her birthday. We left L.A. bay after stocking up on veggies and motored fifteen miles south to anchor at Bahia Alacran. We caught a small yellowtail on the way. Brand-new fancy yurts line what we expected to be an isolated beach.
October 15, 2008
We have moved from Puerto Don Juan to the anchorage off the village of Bahia de Los Angeles. We will restock on fresh foods here, then start heading south tomorrow.
October 12, 2008
We are still sitting in Puerto Don Juan. The wind has picked up to the high 20 knot range from the North. There aren't many places around where we could be as comfortable as here, so we sit. Our reading lists are being whittled down along with a few things on the project list. Erin is also getting in a couple hours on the piano each day too. We'll probably be here another two or three days.
October 10, 2008
It looks like Hurricane Norbert is going to be a non-event for our part of the Sea of Cortez. It's always nice when the weather forecast is spot on. They had predicted Southern Baja for a landfall three days ago, and he seems to have read the plan. We'll stay in Puerto Don Juan for a few more days as there is a strong Northerly wind forecast for Sunday and Monday. Soon we will have to give up on the Bahia de Los Angeles area and start heading South to get ready for winter plans.
October 9, 2008
We back in Puerto Don Juan along with about a dozen other boats, another 8-10 are enroute that we can hear on the radio. Hurricane Norbert is forecast to be well south and east of us, but a category four storm is nothing to be casual about. We will hope to get a nice boat wash, and some relief from the heat. There is another tropical storm, Odile moving up the coast from Central America, so we may be stuck in here for a week.
October 6, 2008
We have moved to an anchorage on Isla Angel de la Guardia called Esta Ton. This spot has great protection from the Northerly winds that are blowing, great diving, and is a bit away from the rest of the cruising fleet. We have had a few social days, and are now looking forward to some solitude. We are only 15 miles from Puerto Don Juan where we will dash in case Hurricane Norbert makes a move in our direction.
October 4, 2008
We have moved on to Puerto Don Juan. There is going to be some rough weather this afternoon and tomorrow, so we are ducking into the safest harbor in the Sea of Cortez. If you zoom in on the map you will see what we sailors call a Hurricane Hole. We are protected from wind and seas from any direction. It is starting to gust up into the low 20's, and in here the water is smooth.
October 3, 2008
We have had a couple days of very fruitful hunting and gathering. Fresh fish, clams, and scallops have filled the menu. We will be going about five miles south to a Pirate Party tomorrow afternoon. If the weather permits we will then move north another 50 miles to an even more remote anchorage on Isla Angel de la Guardia, the largest island in the Sea of Cortez.
October 1, 2008
We are have moved the last 25 miles to the Bahia de Los Angeles area. Nope no freeway access, and it sure looks like a better spot to find an angel than that other one in SoCal. There are about 15 great anchorages within about 10 miles of here, and we are far enough north that if a hurricane does come into the Sea of Cortez it will be mostly dissipated by the time it gets up here. The down side is that the only places to get fresh veggies get stocked about once a week, and prices reflect the 80 miles of rough road between here and the big city.
We will be in this area for about three weeks, enjoying the last of the summer season. The fishing is great, there are a number of boats around that we have friends aboard, and the project list is temporarily under control.
September 29, 2008
We are made it across the Sea of Cortez again! This was the calmest crossing I've ever done. Not a drop pf salt water on the decks. We did end up motoring the last 15 miles because the wind died, and the currents in this area run as high as five knots.
We are anchored at Isla Partida. It is an old volcanic crater, that one side has opened to the sea. If you zoom in on the map you will see why Paul finds this one of the most secure anchorages he has ever been in. It is also a favorite because the water is super clear, and there are yummy things to be found below the surface. Tomorrow will be a diving day. We will probably hang out here a couple days before we continue North.
September 28, 2008
A great day of light air sailing. The spinnaker went up just after 6AM and just came down as the sun was starting to dive for the horizon. We expect to hear the sizzle as it hits the water as it sure is hot here this time of year. Fortunately as we move across the Sea of Cortez the humidity will drop from 75%-85% down into the forties. We are counting on some relief. So far we've managed to not turn on the motor, reducing our carbon footprint and the cabin temperature.
September 27, 2008
We are finally out of the San Carlos area! We had to rebuild the refrigeration, watermaker, and the carb for the dinghy motor. What started as two weeks of projects grew into two months!
Today we are getting some great payback on our investment. We are having a great sail as we head north into the more remote part of the Sea of Cortez.
September 27, 2008
We are finally out of the San Carlos area! We had to rebuild the refrigeration, watermaker, and the carb for the dinghy motor. What started as two weeks of projects grew into two months!
Today we are getting some great payback on our investment. We are having a great sail as we head north into the more remote part of the Sea of Cortez.
September 5, 2008
We made it out of the Marina! There are still projects on the list, but we hope to knock them out in about a week at anchor. Our living conditions have drastically changed. With our little AC unit it was 71 with about 40% humidity inside the boat, now it is mid 90's with 65%. It sure was nice to get in the water this afternoon!
August 20, 2008
We're still in Marina Real in San Carlos, Mexico, re-bedding chainplates, re-bedding portlights, re-designing refrigeration systems, and luxuriating in our cheap window air conditioning unit sitting in our main hatch. At least there's a lovely swimming beach within walking distance.
July 27, 2008
18:00 - The Green Hornet (our trusty Accord) just delivered us back to San Carlos. We will be working on the boat in the desert here for about a week, then putting her back in the water. Watch for some real news about our ever so exciting lives in about two weeks.
April 16, 2008
08:00 - The boat was pulled out of the water and hauled up into the desert to be stored for the next couple months. We will be up in the states working, visiting, and stocking up on goodies. Look for the next updates after the Fourth of July.
April 6, 2008
00:00 - The wind held steady until just a few minutes ago. Time for the soothing drone of the trusty diesel.
03:00 - The wind is back! Unfortunately it's blowing right at us from San Carlos. We'll try to motor into it for awhile.
06:00 - This just isn't a motor boat. Fortunately the wind has shifted so we can stop trying to motor into it. Now we just have to beat, which means heel over about 15 degrees, and jump from little wavetop to wavetop. The boat loves this much more than the passengers. We're no making twice the speed we were making trying to motor into this!
08:30 - Anchor down in San Carlos bay. We will spend the next week getting the boat ready to get hauled about a mile inland to sit in the desert while we go back north to freeze.
April 6, 2008
00:00 - The wind held steady until just a few minutes ago. Time for the soothing drone of the trusty diesel.
03:00 - The wind is back! Unfortunately it's blowing right at us from San Carlos. We'll try to motor into it for awhile.
06:00 - This just isn't a motor boat. Fortunately the wind has shifted so we can stop trying to motor into it. Now we just have to beat, which means heel over about 15 degrees, and jump from little wavetop to wavetop. The boat loves this much more than the passengers. We're no making twice the speed we were making trying to motor into this!
08:30 - Anchor down in San Carlos bay. We will spend the next week getting the boat ready to get hauled about a mile inland to sit in the desert while we go back north to freeze.
April 5, 2008
10:00 - Up anchor from Play El Burro. Had a great stay, and helped get a new website up for one of the HAM nets we use all the time. Check it out at Sonrisa Net
12: - After motoring out of Conception Bay we have a perfect wind coming up. Just the right direction, just the right amount.
16:00 - The sailing this afternoon is going to make it hard to leave the boat. It's just perfect. Smooth seas, clear skies. Now all we need is some fish.
March 28, 2008
06:00 - Up anchor from Ramada Cove. We always enjoy this spot, relatively private, well protected, and lots to explore.
14:15 - A large fog bank has just blown in, we are blind except for the instruments.
16:45 - The fog has cleared, and Paul has kissed the radar!
17:45 - The motor was on all day, 11.5 hours. My ears are still ringing. Anchor down at Playa El Burro. We'll be hanging around here for the next week while we get some chores done, and enjoy our last week in Baja before our summer trip north for work.
March 25, 2008
07:30 - Up anchor from Isla Coronado. We didn't make it into Loreto before dark, so we stopped here 6 miles short.
08:45 - Anchored off Loreto.
12:15 - Underway again, heading North. We stocked up on fresh veggies, and accomplished some communication.
16:00 - We have had a nice sail for the last couple hours, but just lost our wind. Tonight we should motor into Ramada Cove, where we'll hang out for a few days.
March 24, 2008
15:30 - Up anchor from Punta Perico on Isla Carmen. We had a great hike and beach walk this morning, but the arrival of a skanky, derelict, dismasted schooner with an equally scary-looking guy on board with no GPS and no charts and no idea where he was caused us to leave now instead of tomorrow morning as planned. Motoring into chop. Heading to Loreto.
March 22, 2008
08:30 - Up anchor from Isla Monserrat. This very remote spot gave us a couple days without neighbors. We had a long beach walk yesterday where we found the skull of what I think is a Cougar. If it was I wonder how it got ten miles offshore. We collected some more shells, but left the skull.
15:00 - Anchor down at Isla Carmen, Punta Perico. Motored about half way this morning, and had a nice sail the last half. We had an escort from a large pod of dolphins coming into the anchorage, and we can see whales blowing just outside the reef we are behind. We may be here for awhile, it is secluded, well protected, and pretty.
March 24, 2008
15:30 - Up anchor from Punta Perico on Isla Carmen. We had a great hike and beach walk this morning, but the arrival of a skanky, derelict, dismasted schooner with an equally scary-looking guy on board with no GPS and no charts and no idea where he was caused us to leave now instead of tomorrow morning as planned. Motoring into chop. Heading to Loreto.
March 22, 2008
08:30 - Up anchor from Isla Monserrat. This very remote spot gave us a couple days without neighbors. We had a long beach walk yesterday where we found the skull of what I think is a Cougar. If it was I wonder how it got ten miles offshore. We collected some more shells, but left the skull.
15:00 - Anchor down at Isla Carmen, Punta Perico. Motored about half way this morning, and had a nice sail the last half. We had an escort from a large pod of dolphins coming into the anchorage, and we can see whales blowing just outside the reef we are behind. We may be here for awhile, it is secluded, well protected, and pretty.
March 20, 2008
09:30 - Up anchor from Bahia San Marciel. We had a nice stay, and made some new friends. It was good to relax after our bouncy ride in. Went over the boat and found one new deck leak, but no damage. Not bad considering how rough it got there for a bit.
12:00 - Anchor down at Isla Monserrat. No drama. This is an out of the way spot we will probably have all to ourselves. The anchorages that get big coverage in the cruising guides seem to always have lots of traffic. This island only got about a half column inch in the latest guide out, and it is deserted. We are delighted.
March 17, 2008
05:30 - Left San Evaristo early heading motoring north.
12:30 - We were sailing under full main and headsail. Now the wind's come up out of the NNE and we reefed the main. We're fore-reaching.
14:00 - Shook out the reef, then put it back in. Now we've reefed the headsail as well. Zooming along on course at over 6 knots. A large thunderstorm cell is brewing over our destination a few miles away.
15:00 - The cell packed 40+ knot winds and a little rain. We put a second reef in the main and had the headsail down to a hankie. Tried to heave-to, but even our double-reefed main provided too much drive. Seas were getting large, and we took lots of water across the decks and in the cockpit. Everything was under control, but it was still a bit scary.
16:30 - It's back to blue skies, and we're anchored at Bahia San Marciel, where an osprey is wheeling overhead, looking for dinner. After our submarine act, we only found one small leak.
March 16, 2008
08:00 - Left La Paz, motorsailing and then sailing out the narrow channel with a southerly wind.
16:00 - We had to reef the main. The wind is up and out of the north. We're close-hauled.
16:10 - The wind suddenly died. We'll probably motor into San Evaristo and anchor for the night.
March 12, 2008
05:00 - Up and out early. We have 60 miles to get to La Paz, which is only about tne miles away over a ridge. Unfortunately that ridge runs 25 miles north, so we have a long way to go to get around it.
10:00 - The wind was predicted to not blow at all, but we got llucky and are sailing at our required speed. The engine goes off for awhile
16:00 - We got lucky and there is a slip available for the next couple nights. We'll be in Marina de La Paz till Saturday.
March 11, 2008
00:00 - The wind hasn't let up since 6AM yesterday. It is nice to sail through the night, but of course the wind is on the bow, so the boat heals no less than 15 degrees and up to 20 in the stronger gusts.
04:00 - The wind came even stronger, about 25 knots. We are altering course to an anchorage about 50 miles short of La Paz.
10:00 - Anchor down in Bahia de Los Muertos. This was an area used by the indigenous peoples for their burials. For now it is going to offer us nice flat water to sit out the rest of the strong winds. We should be on our way in to La Paz tomorrow morning.
March 10, 2008
01:00 - A clear dark night. No moon means the star display is turned up to extra bright. Despite the noise of the engine I just heard a whale spouting . . . must have been close.
05:00 - The wind came up early, we should have a good day of sailing
16:00 - The wind is up just enough to give us a bit of a wild ride. We are going into it, and there hasn't been enough wind to build waves for a couple days, so rather than waste energy going up and down over waves we're just scooting along. The smooth water and fresh wind make for perfect sailing.
March 9, 2008
07:30 - Departed Mazatlan, sad that we may not be back.
11:30 - Erin spotted a hammerhead shark at the bow of the boat.
16:00 - Moving along at 6 knots under full sail, only 20 degrees from our desired course. Pizza's in the oven.
March 3, 2008
00:00 - Another night of little wind, but we made it almost until midnight before the noise maker had to be started.
08:00 - Back in Mazatlan harbor. We will only be here through the weekend. We have a couple projects that can be done here easier than elsewhere, and we'll get to go out to see some of the great cultural events available in Mazatlan . . . other than Carnival
March 2, 2008
00:00 - The pattern of the wind failing at night has repeated itself. The drone of our trusty diesel is spoiling the peace of a dark sky, starry night. We are sure glad it is there, otherwise we would bo out here bobbing.
16:00 - We have taken advantage of a fine day of sailing to review some of our equipment and procedures that don't get used often in the Sea of Cortez. The hops between anchorages up there are short, so we often don't even use an autopilot. The only thing missing today has been the fish.
March 1, 2008
10:00 - up anchor, and on our way out of Banderas Bay. We have been doinf city cruising since before Christmas, and have one more stop in each of Mazatlan, and La Paz before we get back to some quiet remote anchorages. It feels good to be heading back North as the city life has grown a bit busy. We will take a couple days to get to Mazatlan since the winds will be light and blowing directly from where we want to go.
16:00 - The whales and dolphins have been putting on a great show, we just had a pair of Humpbacks about 100 feet out in front of the boat. As predicted we are poking along in light air that we will hope to keep since even going slow is way better than listening to the engine.
February 29, 2008
22:00 - We just capped off a great three weeks in Puerto Vallarta with a day full of friends, and an evening out to see a couple great musicians. We have gone to our favorite French cafe (yeah the owner is really French), enjoyed real resort lining with Erin's parents, and tonight saw a group that does gypsy and flamenco guitar. If you happen to be in PV check out Latcho and Andrea at the Black Forest restaurant.
February 10, 2008
09:00 - The engine has been on since just after dark, our wind left us, and now we are a motorboat.
15:00 - Rounding the point into Banderas Bay, home of Puerto Vallarta, we had a pair of Humpback whales surface alongside the boat within 20 - 30 feet. They stayed for a few minutes while we stared in awe. Unfortunately they had the sun behind them, so no picture this time.
18:00 - Anchor down off La Cruz. This used to be the little fishing village just out of PV, where you could still find a little real Mexico. This year there is a new marina, and a couple multi-story condo structures going up. We'll be here for a couple weeks, then heading back north.
February 9, 2008
09:00 - Departing Mazatlan after a great month of little work and a bunch of fun.
16:00 - Sailing south toward Puerto Vallarta on a welcome wind of about 10 knots on the beam. The forecast was for no wind at all so there is celebration aboard. The nature show is in full swing with whales, dolphins and sea turtles all making an appearance. We caught a nice tuna that will be dinner.
February 8, 2008
12:00 - We have survived Crrnaval, and you can see the photos on the new page. We will be departing Mazatlan tomorrow morning.
January 7, 2008
12:00 - Anchor down in Mazatlan harbor. This was the calmest crossing of the Sea of Cortez on record. Not a drop of water on the decks. We sure burned the diesel (only 15 gallons, the Romany Star is pretty fuel efficient.)
We will be here for about a month. Mazatlan has the largest Carnival in Mexico which we will attend with friends and family. It's not too late, book a room fro the first weekend in February.
January 6, 2007
16:30 - 85 miles left to Mazatlan. We've motored over half the time, but now we're sailing under sunny skies, doing just under 5 knots (about 5 miles/hour).
We caught another fish, but it was a large black skipjack, the kind with dark flesh. We eat them, but this one fell off the gaff before we got it in the boat. A shark probably ate it. I spent 2 hours cleaning blood off the stern from the last one.
January 5, 2007
16:30 - We're on our way to Mazatlan, sailing slowly ESE on a beam reach with a light N wind. It's a balmy 80 degrees.
A large pod of whales crossed our bow earlier. They shall remain unidentified even after whale book consultation. We also caught a small dorado, which made excellent fish tacos. Pizza for dinner.
January 4, 2008
We have departed in La Paz, by about ten miles. We spent the day at anchor cleaning the bottom and the prop. Amazing what will grow on the bottom of the boat in a busy harbor. Tomorrow morning we will depart toward Mazatlan.